Portugal: Art, Arabs and Azulejos

Tiles, mosaics and colour are an integral part to Arab culture across the region. The influence and history of this tradition became intertwined with countries in and around the Mediterranean from the influence of the Islamic Empire and the Moors. Portugal is one of these countries, renowned today for their azulejos.

Building in Downtown Lisbon.

The city of Lisbon is a melting pot of eclectic influences and design - unsurprisingly, due to its history of maritime and discovery. Each corner brings to mind something else: the silhouette of the Cristo Rei is a nod to Brazil, seen in the city’s skyline alongside the 25 de Abril bridge reminiscent of Istanbul or San Francisco. In Alfama, the oldest neighbourhood in the city, the terracotta rooftops protecting the white structure of the homes is a typical scene that you would imagine when thinking of Portugal or its neighbouring country Spain. Baring similarity to Tyre, Lebanon, the winding streets of Al Fama are endearing and rooted in history, where the walls are found to have murals and tile patterns that make reference to the maritime roots of the country and religious iconography.

In Alfama.

One of Bordalo II’s artworks spotted in Central Lisbon.

Art, in its broader terms, is all around Lisbon (for instance, the street artist Bordalo II whose works promoting environmentalism can be found across the city), a place which I see to be full of murals, street art and mosaics. The buildings in themselves are artworks, each with their own unique colour ways and patterns due to the use of tiles - a foundation of the city’s architecture. Synonymous with Portugal, azulejos can be found all around the country. Embedded into the DNA of Portugal, azulejos form as murals, covering church walls and enveloping the colourful buildings of Lisbon - an incredibly charming and striking feature of the city.

Central Lisbon.

Portugal’s history is intertwined with the that of the Moors - a Berber tribe from Northern Africa that formed populations across the Magrebh, Al Anadalus, Sicily and Malta - who influenced the architectural style of the country. It is suggested that tile-making reached the Iberian Peninsula (the mountainous region associated with the Spain and Portugal) through the Arabs, who were known to use tiles and mosaics to decorate palaces and interiors.

Tiles dedicated to Fado singers of Portugal.

Common throughout Portugal, religious scenes are often depicted through tiles above entrances to houses.

Azulejos designs can be organised into different categories, one being religion. At the Church of Saint Roch in Lisbon, a combination of Italian and Portuguese design can be found. To the left as you enter, there is a shrine dedicated to Our Lady Fátima and Jesus Christ, which is adorned with floral patterns of yellow, teal, green and indigo.

Religious iconography tiles in Alfama.

Tile shop in Sintra.

It was in the 16th century when azulejos became popular in churches and were used as an effective constructive material that made walls water-resistant, as they are easy to replace and are effective decorative features. Furthermore, the tiles were also used to depict religious stories to educate the illiterate population. A pattern series I spotted across different locations (particularly in churches) was the diamond pattern; the ‘diamond points’ tile pattern came to Lisbon in around 1560, when Flemish ceramists settled in the city.

‘Diamond Point’ tile pattern.

In Sintra, the tiles have a clear Moorish influence that is a key feature of the Manueline architectural style. The structure of the National Palace of Pena (a romanticist palace commissioned by King Manuel) uses curves and arches resembling traditional North African and, more widely, Arab architecture. Central to the palace is a courtyard, with a style that looks like a Moroccan Riad. Although most recognised as a typical Moroccan or Andalusian architectural feature, the Riad’s origins can be traced back to Persia and its rise in popularity to the spread of the Islamic Empire. Each room within the palace bares its own theme, however, they share commonality in their ornamental designs and intricate details, such as the carved ceilings.